Thank you, thank you, thank youuuuuu
Okay, I'm at work now, but I'll try to coordinate with you guys at some point and figure out a way to show you what I'm talking about. Bear in mind it will be a generalized fix, and I haven't specifically done it to your car model. Still it's "fixed" a broad range of vehicles, so it should probably get the job done.
Yes, please! We're fairly comfortable with money, but it's still a HUGE expense when there are a lot of other things we want/need to do and have coming up. In the spring and autumn I prefer driving with my windows down, but I really only do that with the front ones. And luckily this one is in the back. So I don't care if it rolls down or not, just that it closes. Our apartment complex is nice, but a lot of the places we live near and visit aren't in the best neighborhood. Also, as more winter-weather comes, I'd like to not have to worry about duct-taping trashbags to it!
Well, then probably (it's impossible to be certain without actually being there to look at it) your cables that I mentioned are getting jammed somewhere. Either in the routing or jammed in the motor itself. To get more complicated, there's typically one of two designs for window regulators. Some have the cables I spoke about routed into them, so the regulator and the cables are basically one piece. Others have the cables just attached to the frame work that runs the window up and down. The regulator just attaches to the frame work and turns a gear that turns another gear that actually moves the cables. If your cable is jammed, or partially jumped off track, or something like that, then it would explain why the motor can wiggle it but not really move it, and why it can move slightly down or up when the car goes over bumps. I've rigged up a few of my friends cars to when they've done this. They don't have a working window anymore, just a window that is up. If you're interested I could try to explain what I did to you or Rob.
I'm worried about the window following down because it's not staying up and it does slide down a bit when I drive. :/ I honestly don't really give a trout about having the window WORK, I just want it CLOSED. I'm also a bit confused because when I first noticed the problem, I tried rolling it up with the power and it sort of wiggled like it wanted to but couldn't.
I'm 99% certain they said window regulator, which is just the term used for the electric window motor. There's a chance they actually said redistributor, but that's not something I'm familiar with so it would be specific to your car, and specialized. A lot of that cost would depend on the cost of a new window regulator (they can be quite pricey), and how difficult it is to remove from the door. Typically the regulator costs more than the labor by approximately double. If it's simply a burnt up regulator that no longer responds to you pressing the button then I really doubt you have to worry about the window falling down. That usually occurs when the cables break or the pulleys fail. Think of the regulator as the motor or wench, and the cable and pulley system being used by the regulator to pull the window up or down.
Something about the window redistributor? I don't sure if I heard that right. I do have a receipt for what they did that I can maybe glance at later. The estimate (not including labor) was like $375?
If you can get a copy of the estimate I'll be happy to glance it over and see if it makes sense. Also maybe describe what is going on to me, and what they think the problem boils down to.
No prob! Glad to hear it was a simple/cheap fix.
I just got my windshield wiper fixed finally! But I just wanted to say thank you for all of your help several months ago. It was only a $20 fix, so nothing too bad!