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I liked most of it. As you said, good, lighthearted fun. And while LeBlanc might not have been the best FF sub-villain, she ran circles around Seymour.
Oh, and it used a job system, which is still my favorite ability system in an FF game (though Materia is a close second). Too bad no real equipment besides the accessories though.
I just loathe and despise the battle music.
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It's not all bad in my eyes, just isn't as enjoyable as some of the others. Still, the Thunder Plains scene is one of the most emotional I've seen in a game (for me at least).
