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I would say that the overarching story of FF12 as a whole was quite a letdown, but the individual scenes that made it up were well written. ... In fact I would say that poor decision making followed by excellent implementation is probably the hallmark of FF12.
The best writing in the game is hands down, as others have mentioned, FFVI, IX, and XII. I'd say VII and X are at the top end of the rest of the pack. Anything before FFIV is pretty schlock by simple virtue of being before there was really a focus on strong storytelling, and I'd say IV and V were comparatively weak next to VI (especially IV's habit of having characters "die"). The only games I really can't stand from a writing or storytelling angle are FFVIII (for completely losing direction after a very promising first act) and FFXIII (for totally dropping the ball on a potentially interesting conflict by using the power of love to save the day).
What about FFXI? I think Chains of Promathia was some of the best writing in the series.