I'm typically on Cuchulainn's side. I guess I developed a greater appreciation for Ivalice after I played Vagrant Story and a third of FF Tactics. I find XII's lack of story-driven, overwrought romance to be refreshing. The game's got it's problems, and Vaan clearly seems like he's just thrown into every cutscene after Basch (who was originally supposed to be the main character) joins the party.
Also, I'm sorry Maybee; Balthier is awesome. I feel like it's okay that he's a cocksure arrogant bastard because it balances well with the fact that unlike other characters who are cocky and arrogant (ie; Irvinne and, admittedly, my namesake), Balthier always keeps his cool and constantly has a plan. Can't really defend Fran's wardrobe though, although I can say I'd take a full-grown playboy bunny for sex appeal than a 15/17 year old girl any day (Not bashing X, just saying that while we're on the subject of fan service...).