Actually, I loved Final Fantasy VII nearly as much as Final Fantasy VI (but I only played to outside Junon because when I saved after Junon when I tried to load the files it said "this data file is corrupted). I thought it had a very unique feeling to it, and they were playing with the censorship freedom without being TOO ott. I found it really fun.
But for the record, VI is my favourite. The first one I ever became truly obsessed with, I love everything about it: music, graphics, characters (aside from Cyan, I never saw what the big deal was with him), storyline, Kefka (I suppose you're right about the too much evil thing, but everyone needs a little random insanity in their lives), levelling system...a wonderful game.
(FFIX owns too.)