The majority of what people talk about and enjoy is the non story related stuff which is neatly integrated with believeable backstory and history. E.G. espers, the bestiary and secrets of ivalice.
but if you want the story to be the main thing you'll be dissapointed because espers and hunts lose meaning as they take far longer than the main story. the side quests so huge and seperate that it may as well be another game.
Edit: come to think of it. all of the graphics and epic cutscenes and flashiest bosses were put into the main story but more time and effort was probably put into the side story. a bit unbalanced.
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