I was originally looking at the Cowon S9, but unfortunately it only has touch screen controls. Which really disappointed me since it seemed to be everything I wanted, but I have never used a touch screen device I have liked.

I have a Zune, and while some people I know don't like it, I think it's superior to the iPod.
I was thinking about getting a Zune just to express my dislike of Apple products

Concerning your third criterion, you can always just edit your own ID3 tags using a number of programs. I use MP3 Tag Tools.
I did that for my old iPod, but I don't like losing my artist name in place of whatever name I chose to use in my filing system.

Physical size matters, and HDDs in highly portable devices is a bad idea.
It's primary function will be for gym/running, so size does matter quite a bit.

Thanks for all the advice. As you can see, choosing consumer technology is extremely difficult for someone as picky as me.