Yep. It's really great. Reminds me of Castlevania. I love all the mini-puzzles and how everything fits together if you just use your head. Best experienced with ENC-NONE, but the ability locking makes random encounters interesting, too.

Thinking on it, the final areas of just about all of the FF games are great. Northern Crater, Kefka's Tower, Memoria -- all genuinely awesome.