Season 5 of Buffy is second only to Season 2 in my opinion - great villain, one of the best TV episodes ever in The Body and great ending. Plus Dawn wasn't too bad (in stark contrast to Season 6). I like the last two seasons but they could have ended it there and it would have been pretty much perfect.
And only Buffy and Spike was annoying in my opinion, Xander and Anya/Willow and Tara were both great couples.