I loved it from the start but didn't really understand why until my second play through. I love how different it is. I loved the world, the music, the battle system - I really think FF needed more of that sort of things. And I really did enjoy the story and characters. Here's where Skyblade and I completely disagree - I think the writing is one of the more subtle, refined and mature within the whole series and the characters seem much more like actual human beings than in any game befor, especially X
And I'm glad more people have come to appreciate it lately. It's like Jess said - this is probably the most underrated title. At the very least, it's the most divisive. Too bad Japan still doesn't like it. That probably means we'll never see an HD remake.