I always thought this one was the most entertaining in the whole series, even superior to FF7 and FF9 in gameplay.
Too me, most of the gameplay comes from item collection and stuff; I always get kicks from collecting all the Espers, fighting in the Colloseum for nice prices, equipping characters to Optimum and try out different Relic Combos.
I donīt really care to much about the story anymore; sure, itīs amazingly told and whatnot, and the atmosphere rules, but too me, the fun mainly lies in clearing Rages, collecting magics and so on; Iīve already heard the story multiple times and know it by heart.
Itīs really nice hunting for rare items, and then the feeling of equipping all chars to their best thanks to all the hunting (Tiger Fangs x 2 for Sabin is a good example; you can steal another one in Kefkaīs Tower).
I never really liked ignoring anything, I always aim for a perfect game, and that just feel great overall.