Yes, as it's already been established your best option is to either CSS + XHTML or DreamWeaver/Frontpage (but those cost $).

http://www.westciv.com/style_master/...roduction.html
That's a fairly decent tutorial for CSS and XHTML in notepad, but ignore the stupid product placements for whatever the hell they're trying to get you to download.

Once you've gone through all of that tutorial, go to www.csszengarden.com and download a couple of .css files and check out what people are doing and how. Devotion = Skill, the more you put into to a page the better it'll come out.