I've kept Exp Share on but just have a bigger rotation of pokemon than usual. Like, anything that is a preevolution I just stick in my party so that it can evolve and get on my pokedex. I agree that you level up way quickly in this game but you can turn that to your advantage for 'dex hunting.
One thing that annoys me is all the cries for help when I'm trying to catch something. I liked the hordes from X/Y better.